Grand Manan Island
New Brunswick, Canada
"The Hometown of My Heart..."
Some places you visit leave a deep mark on who you are; no matter how much time passes that never leaves. For me, Grand Manan Island in the Bay of Fundy, off the east coast of Canada is that place. It is arguably the most significant place on earth for me, and by far one of my favourites. Throughout my life, I've visited this island three times and I can guarantee that I will again in the future. It is a home away from home, a safe haven and if you ask me one of the most beautiful places on earth.
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I spent a lot of time going back and forth, with regards to whether I was going to write about this specific location; but ultimately I realized that all my time and experiences here, the weird, the wonderful and the bittersweet are all a part of what makes me the person I am today. This island is truly a unique underrated natural gem on our planet, and it deserves the brightest spotlight.
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Welcome to Grand Manan, the spark of my passion regarding the conservation of our beautiful planet, and the place I first fell in love. This is a tribute to my favourite place on earth. A place that taught me the importance of conservation, consciousness and awareness. A place that saved and changed my life in more ways than one. A place that introduced me to once in a lifetime people who changed the course of my life. The place that taught me: “Unless someone like you cares a whole awful lot, nothing is going to get better it’s not.” Unless.
The journey home begins in Blacks Harbour where you catch the ferry to Grand Manan Island
Whale Camp: Summer 2013
The summer before ninth grade my parents enrolled me in a marine biology science program. At the age of fourteen, my heart was very much set on pursuing a career in marine biology. My parents, as always, did their very best to provide me with the tools and opportunities to reach my goals and so they sent me to a marine science camp for two weeks, Whale Camp, on Grand Manan Island.
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Middle school had been a particularly tough year for me, and I knew my first year into high school would not an easy transition. I was low on friends, high on anxiety & depression and had been continually bullied through middle school. I arrived at the meeting point for the program in Bangor Maine, USA very much ready for an escape from my everyday life and routine. Excited to be surrounded by new people who shared similar passions as I did. The program focuses on the education of youth ages ten to seventeen. The counsellors are always a passionate group of young adults who strive to promote conservation, education, participation and most of all, inclusion and a strong self-esteem.
[Left] Local fishing weir
[Right] The Hole In The Wall
The two weeks I spent on the island was the first time in a long time where I felt like I belonged somewhere. Nobody knew me but I was instantly able to connect with other kids of all ages simply because of our common love for the island. The program takes campers on a series of kayaking, whale watching, puffin viewing and nature hikes (rain or shine) that truly immerse you in the beauty of our natural world.
After two weeks of the most positive and easy existence going back to my life was difficult; but participating in this program for two weeks did more than distract me from the things I was coping with back in my everyday life. It gave me motivation, inspiration, friends and tools to better tackle the challenges that would come with being a fourteen-year-old girl in an exclusive and hierarchical high school. I returned home to Ottawa but the imprint of what I learned that summer has stayed with me to this day.
[Top Left] A pair of Humpback Whales surfacing and diving to feed close to our boat.
[Top Right] Humpback Whale calf rolling and playing in the water.
[Bottom Left & Right] Photos of the Atlantic Puffin breeding colony on Machias-Seal Island in the Bay of Fundy captured from a bird watching blind.
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Whale Camp: Summer 2014
My first year of high school brought with it the same struggles and challenges as middle school and more and by the first month of ninth grade I was begging my parents for another summer on the island. What got me through that year was the knowledge that at the end of it I would travel across the country, board a ferry and finally return home. I arrived back on Grand Manan in the third week of July and immediately felt the weight of the last ten months lift off my chest. I settled back into a familiar routine of bonding and interacting with teenagers my age who shared the same passion for the island and all of its wonders. I spent a magical three weeks that summer, hiking, learning and being inspired by the importance of the global conservation of not only our endangered species but our whole planet.
This summer was also an impactful one for me because of one specific individual I met there. Until then, I didn't understand how much one person could influence and change your life. Looking back from the beginning of a journey to its final conclusion; I smile in gratitude for that first moment at Swallowtail Lighthouse where I looked over and somehow knew my life would never be the same again.
[Top Left] Cliff views from Southwest Head Lighthouse
[Top Right] Swallowtail Point overlooking Pettes Cove Beach
My most memorable experience from this summer was a specific whale watch we went on where we ended up being surrounded by 35 North Atlantic Right Whales. The magic of being surrounded by a 10% of population of one of the world's most endangered species of cetacean is indescribable. Multiple calfs came right up to our boat and breached close enough for the splash to hit our jackets. Witnessing the power and strength of a whale as it surfaces and the awe when it dives back down again is one of the best experiences of my life I don't think I will ever be able to top.
[Top Left] One of Grand Manan Island's iconic churches.
[Top Right] Trail head for some of the best hikes on the island.
[Left] Adult Northern Right Whale fluking as it dives to feed.
[Right] Baby Northern Right Whale calf lob-tailing.
In the summer of 2018, I returned to the island. This third occasion was as an adult, with my partner at the time. Returning to the island over four years since I was last there was a eye opening experience for me. I returned a different person, having seen more of the world, faced new challenges, climbed bigger mountains. I returned with an extensive appreciation of how rare moments of absolute pure happiness can be, and how important it is to live fully within them. The greatest moments of beauty in life aren't always found in forever.
Our time was filled with beautiful hikes, a stunning campsite, ice cold swims, my questionable cooking and clear skied nights perfect for stargazing. A whale watching tour with a pod of Atlantic White Sided Dolphins & Humpback Whales and later, a family of Sea Otters swimming at sunset in Dark Harbour Brook. I can confidently recommend the Grand Manan Hospital's friendly staff for all your medical needs, especially when it involves an unfortunate run in with wild parsnip or a near twisted ankle.
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The two weeks I spent on Grand Manan that summer; in my favourite place on earth with my favourite person at the time were the some of the best days of my life. They showed me that in the midst of a chaotic, confusing and sometimes cruel world, there are moments of genuine magic and happiness. You simply have to be patient enough to wait for them, confident enough to seize them when they do come along, and mature enough to be grateful for the time you were given when that time finally runs out.
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[Top Left] Seal Cove at sunset.
[Top Right] Dark Harbour Brook at sunset.
Life is incredibly unpredictable, we find ourselves on different paths than originally intended. Things change, people change and grow, but the best kinds of moments in life are the ones that long after they've become memories, you're left with nothing but love and gratitude. On those days that are a little tougher, a little darker, you can look back all those beautiful memories and smile. Be grateful for all the times you are given: the weird, wonderful and bittersweet because they all make up the person you are today.
[Top Left] Sunset swimming near a Fin Whale in Seal Cove.
[Top Right] Day trip adventures on White Head Island.
I never understood the power of place until I visited Grand Manan Island. The person I am today is derived from one decision to travel to one island off the East coast of Canada one particular summer. My world was forever shifted on its axis by the time I spent in this place and the connections it created. If I were to describe Grand Manan Island in one word it would be love. Love for our beautiful planet, love for another person, love of happiness. The true hometown of my heart.
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Sea Watch Tours is a local whale & puffin watching ecotourism company owned and run by locals Peter Wilcox and Durlin Ingersoll. They are incredibly friendly, passionate and welcoming individuals who will bring you out onto the water for the best whale watching experience I've ever had. If you are visiting the island, a tour with this amazing company is a necessity and well worth your money.
